Tall grass

How to Cut Tall Grass?

Maintaining a well-kept lawn involves several tasks, one of which is cutting tall grass. Tall grass can make your yard look unkempt and may even harbor pests. To ensure a successful cutting process, you’ll need the right tools and a bit of know-how.

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Gather Your Tools

Before you embark on your grass-cutting mission, it’s important to gather the necessary tools. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Lawnmower or String Trimmer: Depending on the height of the grass, you can use either a lawnmower or a string trimmer. A lawnmower is ideal for larger areas, while a string trimmer is perfect for tighter spots and edges.
  • Safety Gear: Protect yourself by wearing safety goggles to shield your eyes from debris. Sturdy gloves will help safeguard your hands, and don’t forget to wear closed-toe shoes for foot protection.
  • Rake: A sturdy rake will come in handy for collecting grass clippings and tidying up after you’re done.
  • Gasoline or Power Cord: If you’re using a gas-powered lawnmower or string trimmer, ensure you have enough gasoline to complete the task. For electric tools, make sure you have a long enough power cord to reach all areas of your lawn.
  • Trash Bags or Compost Bin: You’ll need a place to dispose of the collected grass clippings. Large trash bags or a compost bin work well for this purpose.

By having these tools ready, you’ll be well-prepared to tackle the task of cutting tall grass and transforming your lawn into a neat and inviting outdoor space.

Safety Precautions

Before you begin cutting tall grass, take a moment to ensure your safety. Follow these simple precautions:

  • Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles from the lawn, such as rocks, toys, or debris, to prevent accidents while mowing.
  • Wear Appropriate Clothing: Choose comfortable clothing that covers your skin, and opt for closed-toe shoes to protect your feet from debris and potential hazards.
  • Check the Equipment: Inspect your lawnmower or string trimmer to ensure it’s in proper working condition. Check the blades, fuel levels (if applicable), and safety features.
  • Stay Hydrated: Mowing can be physically demanding, especially on a hot day. Stay hydrated by keeping a water bottle nearby and taking breaks as needed.
  • Watch Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings while mowing to avoid tripping hazards, pet encounters, and other potential accidents.

Mowing Tall Grass with a Lawnmower

Mowing tall grass requires a slightly different approach than mowing shorter grass. Here’s how to do it effectively:

  1. Adjust the Mower Height: Set the lawnmower deck to its highest cutting height. This prevents cutting off too much grass at once, which could stress the grass and expose the soil to harsh sunlight.
  2. Start Slowly: Begin mowing slowly and gradually increase your pace as you get a feel for the terrain and the grass height. This prevents clogs and strain on the mower’s engine.
  3. Overlap Each Pass: Make overlapping passes with the lawnmower to ensure even coverage. This helps prevent uneven patches and missed areas.
  4. Bag or Mulch: If the grass is excessively tall, you may need to bag the clippings instead of mulching them. Bagging prevents clumps of grass from smothering your lawn.
  5. Take Breaks: Tall grass can be tougher to mow, so take breaks if needed to avoid overexertion.
  6. Final Pass: After the initial mowing, you can lower the mower deck slightly and make a final pass for a more polished look.

By following these steps, you’ll be able to tackle tall grass with your lawnmower and achieve a well-maintained lawn that you can enjoy throughout the season.

Trimming Tall Grass with a String Trimmer

If you’re using a string trimmer to tackle tall grass, here’s how to do it effectively:

  1. Choose the Right String: Make sure your string trimmer is equipped with a heavy-duty line that can handle thicker grass without getting constantly tangled or breaking.
  2. Safety First: Wear safety goggles, long pants, and closed-toe shoes to protect yourself from flying debris.
  3. Start at the Edges: Begin by trimming along the edges of your lawn or around obstacles like trees, fences, and flower beds.
  4. Work in Sections: Divide your lawn into manageable sections and work through them systematically. Hold the trimmer at a slight angle and guide it through the grass, letting the string do the cutting.
  5. Keep a Comfortable Height: Don’t cut the grass too short all at once. Gradually lower the trimmer head to achieve your desired grass height, making multiple passes if necessary.
  6. Overlap Each Pass: Just like with mowing, overlap each pass slightly to ensure even trimming and avoid leaving patches of tall grass.
  7. Check for Obstructions: As you trim, keep an eye out for rocks, sticks, or other debris that could damage the trimmer or pose a hazard.

Cleaning Up

After trimming or mowing tall grass, it’s important to clean up properly:

  1. Collect Clippings: If you used a lawnmower, gather any grass clippings and bag them for disposal or use them as mulch in your garden.
  2. Rake Debris: Use a rake to collect any leftover debris, such as cut grass, sticks, or leaves, and dispose of them.
  3. Inspect the Area: Walk around your lawn to ensure you haven’t missed any patches of tall grass or overlooked any obstacles.
  4. Dispose of Waste: Dispose of collected grass clippings and debris in accordance with your local waste disposal regulations. You may be able to compost grass clippings if they’re free from pesticides and chemicals.
  5. Clean Your Equipment: After you’re done, clean your lawnmower or string trimmer thoroughly to prevent grass buildup and keep it in good working condition for future use.

By following these steps, you can effectively trim tall grass and maintain a neat and tidy lawn that enhances the overall appearance of your outdoor space.


Taking care of your lawn after trimming tall grass ensures healthy growth and a well-maintained appearance:

  1. Watering: Give your lawn a good watering after trimming to help it recover from the stress of cutting. Deep and consistent watering promotes root growth and overall health.
  2. Fertilizing: Consider applying a balanced fertilizer to provide essential nutrients to the grass. Avoid excessive fertilization, as it can lead to rapid growth that requires more frequent mowing.
  3. Avoid Heavy Traffic: Try to minimize foot traffic on the freshly trimmed areas for a few days to allow the grass to recover without being stressed further.
  4. Regular Maintenance: Establish a regular lawn care routine that includes mowing, watering, and fertilizing to keep your grass healthy and prevent it from becoming overgrown in the future.
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Trimming tall grass may seem like a challenging task, but with the right tools, safety precautions, and techniques, you can achieve a neatly manicured lawn. Remember that regular maintenance and proper aftercare are key to keeping your lawn looking its best. By following these steps and showing your lawn a little love, you’ll enjoy an outdoor space that you can be proud of and that adds to the overall beauty of your home.

Seeds for a lawn on a black soil

How Much Peat Moss to Cover Grass Seed?

Have you ever planted grass seeds, only to find that they never sprouted or didn’t grow as lush and green as you’d hoped? The secret to a thriving lawn might be something as simple as peat moss. This incredible natural material could be just what your grass seeds need to germinate successfully and grow robustly. In this article, we’ll demystify peat moss, explaining what it is, why it’s beneficial for grass seeds, and most importantly, how much to use for optimal results.

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What is Peat Moss?

Peat moss, also known as sphagnum moss, is a type of moss that grows in damp, acidic environments like bogs and marshes. Over thousands of years, layers of this moss accumulate and decompose to form peat. This peat is then harvested, dried, and sold as peat moss.

Why is this moss so amazing for your garden, you ask? Peat moss has some unique properties that make it a gardener’s best friend. It’s incredibly absorbent, soaking up to 20 times its weight in water. This means it can keep your soil moist, which is crucial for grass seed germination. Plus, peat moss is slightly acidic, which helps create a soil environment that’s perfect for grass to thrive.

But how much peat moss should you use to cover your grass seeds? Let’s dive in and find out!

Why Use Peat Moss for Grass Seeds?

When it comes to growing a lush, green lawn, peat moss is like a secret superpower. Firstly, it’s great at holding onto water. This means that when you water your grass seeds, the peat moss will keep the soil moist for longer. As a result, your seeds are less likely to dry out and more likely to sprout into beautiful grass.

Secondly, peat moss helps to improve the structure of the soil. It makes heavy clay soils lighter and easier for grass roots to penetrate, and it helps sandy soils retain more water.

Lastly, peat moss also protects the seeds. When spread over freshly planted grass seeds, peat moss acts like a protective blanket. It shields the seeds from hungry birds, prevents them from being blown away by the wind, and keeps them from washing away during heavy rain.

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How Much Peat Moss to Use?

Now that we know why peat moss is beneficial, let’s talk about how much to use. The rule of thumb is to cover your grass seeds with a thin layer of peat moss, about 1/4 inch thick. This is just enough to reap all the benefits of peat moss without suffocating your seeds.

To visualize it, if you have a 1,000 square foot area to seed, you would need roughly 1 cubic yard of peat moss. Remember, the goal is to lightly cover the seeds, not bury them completely.

Stick with this guideline, and you’ll be well on your way to a thriving, green lawn. But how exactly do you apply this magical moss? Let’s get into that next.

How to Apply Peat Moss Over Grass Seed

Applying peat moss is a breeze. Once you’ve evenly spread your grass seeds over your lawn, take handfuls of peat moss and gently scatter it over the area. Try to get a nice, even layer that’s about 1/4 inch thick. You can use a lawn spreader to make the job easier and to ensure even distribution. After you’ve spread the peat moss, water the area thoroughly. This will help the peat moss to settle and start working its magic on your seeds.

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Precautions When Using Peat Moss

While peat moss is a fantastic aid for grass seed growth, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. Peat moss can be dusty, so it’s a good idea to wet it slightly before using it. This makes it easier to handle and reduces the amount of dust. Remember, peat moss is acidic, so if your soil is already acidic, you might want to test your soil’s pH before adding too much.

Lastly, be mindful of the environment. Peat moss is a natural resource that takes thousands of years to form. So, use it sparingly and consider combining it with other organic matter like compost or manure to lessen the environmental impact.


Peat moss is like a secret ingredient to a luscious, green lawn. It offers a buffet of benefits, from retaining moisture to improving soil structure, making it an invaluable tool in your gardening arsenal. Remember, the trick is to apply a thin layer — just enough to cover the grass seeds. With peat moss on your team, your grass seeds are sure to sprout successfully and your lawn will be the talk of the neighborhood.

Grass in winter time

Does Grass Die in Winter?

Have you ever looked out your window on a cold winter day and wondered what happens to your lawn under the thick blanket of snow? Does it die off only to magically reappear when spring rolls around? That’s a question many people ask as they see their once vibrant and green lawn turn into a seemingly lifeless brown field. In this article, we’ll delve into the life cycle of grass and how it survives the harsh winter season.

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Life Cycle of Grass

Grass is a remarkable plant. Like any living thing, it has a life cycle that involves stages of growth, reproduction, and rest. When the weather is warm, grass spends its energy growing and reproducing, covering your lawn with a beautiful green carpet. But when temperatures drop, something interesting happens.

Instead of dying off, grass goes into a kind of hibernation. This state, called dormancy, is a survival strategy grass uses to withstand extreme weather conditions, like the cold of winter. So, while it might look like your grass has given up the ghost when the snow flies, it’s actually just sleeping, conserving energy until the warm days return. Next, we’ll explore how different types of grasses react to winter and what dormancy means for your lawn.

The Impact of Winter on Different Types of Grass

Not all grass is the same, you know. In fact, there are many different types of grass, and each reacts to winter in its own way. For instance, cool-season grasses like fescue, ryegrass, and bluegrass actually thrive in cooler temperatures and can stay green throughout the winter, provided the conditions aren’t too harsh.

On the other hand, warm-season grasses like Bermuda and zoysia really don’t like the cold. They turn brown and go dormant in the winter. But don’t worry, they’re not dead. They’re just taking a long nap, waiting for the warmer weather of spring to come back.

The Process of Grass Dormancy in Winter

So, what’s happening to your grass when it’s dormant? Think of dormancy as a deep sleep. When the weather gets cold, grass slows down its growth and focuses on storing energy in its roots. The top part of the grass might turn brown, but the roots are still alive and kicking.

This is a natural process that helps the grass survive the winter. By “sleeping” through the cold months, the grass conserves energy and protects itself from the cold. It’s a clever survival tactic, and it’s why your lawn springs back to life when the weather warms up.

In the next sections, we’ll explore how to care for your lawn in winter and how to help it recover when spring arrives. Stick around, the best is yet to come!

How to Care for Your Grass During Winter

Winter is coming! And while your grass might be getting ready to sleep, there’s still some work for you to do.

First, try to keep off the lawn as much as possible. Walking on dormant grass can cause damage and make it harder for the lawn to recover in spring.

Next, consider applying a winter fertilizer to your lawn. This will feed your grass’s roots and help them stay strong through the cold months. But remember, always follow the instructions on the package!

Finally, keep your lawn clear of leaves and debris. These can block light and trap moisture, creating the perfect conditions for mold and diseases.

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Preparing Your Lawn for Spring: Post-Winter Care

When winter is over and your grass wakes up from its long nap, it will be ready for a bit of TLC. This is your chance to set your lawn up for a successful growing season.

First, give your lawn a good raking. This will remove any leftover leaves and debris and will help to aerate the soil, making it easier for water and nutrients to reach your grass’s roots.

Next, consider applying a spring fertilizer to give your grass a nutrient boost. Look for a fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen to promote healthy leaf growth.

Finally, as the weather warms up, start to water your lawn regularly. Grass needs about an inch of water a week to stay healthy, so keep an eye on the weather and adjust your watering schedule as needed.

And there you have it! With these simple tips, your grass should bounce back from winter dormancy and be ready to grow lush and green. Just remember, every lawn is different and it’s all about finding what works best for you and your grass.

Frequently Asked Questions About Grass and Winter

Does all grass go dormant in winter?

Not all types of grass go dormant during winter. Cool-season grasses like fescue and Kentucky bluegrass stay green and continue to grow in cooler temperatures, while warm-season grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia go dormant and turn brown.

How can I protect my grass in winter?

You can protect your grass during winter by minimizing foot traffic, keeping your lawn clear of debris, and using a winter fertilizer. It’s also crucial to mow your lawn to the right height before winter arrives; not too short, not too long.

How soon can I start mowing my lawn in the spring?

As soon as your grass starts growing in the spring, you can begin mowing. Just be sure not to cut the grass too short at first to avoid stressing it.


The winter season doesn’t necessarily spell doom for your grass. While it’s true that some grasses go dormant and turn brown, this is a natural process that helps them survive the cold. With proper care before, during, and after winter, you can ensure that your lawn remains healthy and is ready to spring back into action once the temperatures start to rise. Remember, the secret to a lush, green lawn lies in year-round care and patience!

grass with shovel pinned to the ground

How to Transplant Grass?

Imagine having the ability to take a patch of lush, green grass from one area of your garden and move it to another area that’s bare or lacking in vitality. Sounds like garden magic, right? Well, that’s exactly what grass transplantation can do! It’s a simple, yet effective, gardening technique that can help you repair lawn damage, fill in bare spots, or even create a new lawn area. This process, while it requires some patience and a bit of elbow grease, can save you time and money compared to planting new grass seed or laying sod. So, whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a green-thumbed newbie, get ready to dive into the world of grass transplantation!

When is the Best Time to Transplant Grass

Just like other gardening activities, timing plays a crucial role in grass transplantation. The ideal time to transplant grass depends on the type of grass and your local climate, but generally, the best times are during periods of active growth.

For cool-season grasses (like Fescue, Ryegrass, and Bluegrass), the best times to transplant are during the early spring or early fall. These grass types thrive in cooler temperatures and the moderate weather during these periods provides an excellent environment for the grass to establish roots in their new location.

For warm-season grasses (like Bermuda, Zoysia, and St. Augustine), late spring to early summer is the most favorable period for transplantation. These grass types love the heat and will establish quickly when temperatures are consistently warm.

Remember, the key is to give the transplanted grass enough time to establish in its new location before it has to face stressful conditions like extreme heat, cold, or drought.

Tools and Materials Needed

Transplanting grass is a hands-on task, but don’t worry, you won’t need any fancy equipment. Here’s a list of tools and materials you’ll need:

  1. Spade or Sod Cutter: To lift patches of grass out of the ground, you’ll need a good spade or, if you have one, a sod cutter.
  2. Garden Cart or Wheelbarrow: To transport the grass patches from the original site to the new site.
  3. Garden Hose or Watering Can: For watering your transplanted grass.
  4. Soil Amendment Materials: Depending on the condition of your soil, you may need compost or a slow-release fertilizer to boost the nutrient content.
  5. Rake: To prepare and level the new site before transplanting.
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Preparing the New Site

Before you start moving grass around, it’s important to prepare the new site where the grass will be transplanted. Here’s how to do it:

  1. Clear the Site: Remove any debris, rocks, or old roots from the area.
  2. Check the Soil: Test the soil to ensure it’s suitable for grass growth. Most grasses prefer a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. You can buy a simple soil testing kit from a garden store or online.
  3. Amend the Soil: Based on your soil test, you may need to add organic matter or a slow-release fertilizer to improve soil fertility.
  4. Level the Area: Use a rake to level the ground. This ensures that the transplanted grass will sit at the right height and won’t have any puddles after watering.

How to Transplant Grass: Step-by-Step Guide

Now it’s time to put those gardening gloves to work! Here’s how to transplant grass:

  1. Cut the Grass: Using your spade or sod cutter, cut out a section of grass from the donor area. Aim for a depth of about 2-3 inches to include some soil and roots.
  2. Lift the Grass: Carefully lift the cut-out section of grass. Be gentle to avoid damaging the roots.
  3. Move the Grass: Using your garden cart or wheelbarrow, transport the grass section to the prepared site.
  4. Position the Grass: Place the grass section onto the prepared site. Ensure it’s level with the surrounding soil to promote even growth.
  5. Press Down: Press down on the grass patch to ensure good contact between the roots and the soil.
  6. Water Thoroughly: Water the transplanted grass thoroughly. This helps to settle the soil and reduces transplant shock.
  7. Repeat: Continue this process until you’ve transplanted all the necessary grass sections.
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Caring for the Transplanted Grass

After the transplant, your grass will need some extra love and care to help it establish in its new home:

  1. Water Regularly: For the first few weeks, keep the transplanted grass well-watered. This helps the grass recover from transplant shock and encourages the roots to grow deep into the soil.
  2. Mow Carefully: Wait until the grass is actively growing before mowing. And when you do mow, be gentle. Adjust your mower to a higher setting to avoid cutting the grass too short.
  3. Monitor Growth: Keep an eye on the transplanted grass. If it’s looking a bit pale or weak, it might need a little extra fertilizer to boost its nutrient intake.

Remember, like all living things, grass needs time to adjust and grow. Be patient, and with your care and attention, the transplanted grass will soon be thriving in its new location! In the next section, we’ll address some common problems you might encounter and how to overcome them. Let’s keep going!

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Common Problems and Solutions in Transplanting Grass

Transplanting grass might come with a few challenges, but don’t worry, here are some common problems and their solutions:

  1. Transplanted Grass Isn’t Rooting Well: If the transplanted grass isn’t rooting well, it might not be getting enough water. Ensure you’re watering deeply and frequently for the first few weeks after transplanting.
  2. Transplanted Grass is Wilting or Turning Brown: This might be a sign of transplant shock. It’s normal for plants to experience some shock after being moved. Continue to care for the grass as usual, and it should recover with time.
  3. New Site Has Poor Drainage: If water stands on the surface for a long time after watering, you may have a drainage problem. Consider improving soil structure by adding organic matter or installing a simple drainage system.
  4. Pests or Disease: If you notice signs of pests or disease, act quickly. Identify the problem and use the appropriate organic or chemical treatment.


Congratulations! You’ve taken a journey through the process of grass transplantation. From learning about the best time to transplant grass to caring for your newly transplanted lawn, you now have the knowledge to spruce up your garden. Remember, grass transplantation is not just a task; it’s an art. An art that brings with it the joy of creating something beautiful and the satisfaction of seeing your hard work bear fruit (or, in this case, grass). So, embrace the process, take up the challenge, and transform your garden with your newfound skills.

Grass after ammonia

Does Ammonia Kill Grass?

Ammonia is a great source of nitrogen for your grass. However, it also has the potential to kill said grass if the wrong type is applied or it’s not used properly. This being said, the obvious answer is yes – ammonia can kill the grass. In fact, it can do this quite easily if you aren’t careful.

So, to help you make the most of this powerful chemical, here is a breakdown of the most common types of ammonia that you might be tempted to use.

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Ammonium Nitrate

Ammonium nitrate is a great source of nitrogen. It’s used in many fertilizer blends and is especially beneficial for fall and winter weed and feed application. This form of ammonia is best suited for grass that is already established and happy, as it releases nitrogen quickly, which can kill new seedlings or unhealthy grass.

With a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio of 33-0-0, ammonium nitrate fertilizers require applications of 3 pounds of product per every 1,000 square feet of area. This three-pound rule will supply your lawn with one pound of ammonium nitrate.

Common Household Ammonia

Ammonium hydroxide is the compound found within common household cleaners and it is most commonly used to create homemade lawn tonics. This powerful solution can, without a doubt, kill your grass easily. Depending on the brand of ammonia, the concentration in every product will be different which makes it incredibly easy to burn your lawn if you don’t know what you’re doing.

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Unlike other types of ammonia, household ammonia doesn’t supply grass with enough nitrogen for there to be a benefit, as it has to be applied in small quantities to prevent the burns we mentioned before. This being said, it’s not usually a gardener’s go-to for ammonia products.

Ammonium Sulfate

Ammonium sulfate isn’t usually used in commercial grass fertilizers because it has a tendency to cause acidity changes within the soil. It’s generally used to lower pH levels to promote the growth of acid-loving plants.

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To supply grass with one pound of chemical, one must use five pounds of products with this chemical. In addition, over-application is likely to cause chemical burns in the grass, so you have to be careful when applying and/or reapplying as overdoing it isn’t hard to do.

Garden ammonia fertilizers

Ammonium Phosphate Sulfate

Ammonium phosphate sulfate is a gentler form of nitrogen, which makes it ideal for newer and younger grasses. It’s commonly used before planting new grass seed or to kick start the growth of new grass. It contains less nitrogen than ammonium nitrate but also supplies some beneficial phosphorus.

Hi-Yield (32115) Super Phosphate 0-18-0 (4 lbs.)
  • Provides a readily available form of phosphate which is used by plants during photosynthesis.
  • This plant growth supplement promotes larger more beautiful blooms & fruit.
  • This phosphate fertilizer can be used on outdoor plants for enhanced growth.
  • This plant phosphate supplement contains 18% phosphate derived from Super Phosphate.
  • Applications rates vary with plant type and size. See label for application instructions.

When it comes to using, six pounds of the product will yield one pound of nitrogen per every 1,000 square feet. Of all the common ammonia used, this one is the least likely to burn or kill the grass.

Who knew that there were so many forms of ammonia, right? Well, no worries – now you know! You can now safely choose the best type of ammonia-based product for you and your needs.


Natural Ways to Kill Dandelions Without Killing the Grass

When it comes to killing broadleaf weeds like dandelions, not everyone wants to run to the store and purchase a chemical product to do the job. If that sounds like you, you might be wondering how you can kill those pesky weeds without causing damage to your grass.

We can help with that! It’s important though, as you read through our list of natural weed killers, that you remember to always do your best to avoid applying any weed killers – natural or not- to healthy grass or flowers because, unfortunately, even natural weed killers can kill the grass if contact is made. Otherwise, though, you don’t have to worry – your natural homemade dandelion killers won’t kill the grass as long as you don’t spray them there.


While not the most ideal treatment for the lawn, salt is a great option for killing weeds that pop up in your garden path or driveway, both of which are likely in close proximity to grass that you’d probably rather not kill. Luckily, when salt is used as a weed killer it won’t spread to any other areas.

Morton, Iodized Salt, 737 Grams(gm)
  • Prevent From Goiter
  • Improves Brain Function
  • Fights Depression
  • Helpful In Weight Control

Simply gather up rock or table salt and apply. Be careful not to use too much, as doing so can cause concrete to erode and soil to be barren for long periods of time.

Goats eating dandelions


Have you ever thought about buying a goat as a pet? No? How about as a professional weed killer? If not, now might be the time! Goats are wonderful at helping control weeds. They don’t care what kind of weeds they chow down on and can reach places that both people and machines have a hard time getting to. Best of all, though, is that they won’t kill the grass. 


Vinegar is an all-natural method of killing weeds. However, it’s non-selective and will kill any and all vegetation it touches. This is why it’s important to take care when applying it. Nevertheless, a simple solution of vinegar and water does wonders to dry up pesky weeds.


Now that you’re considering owning a goat or two, why not take it to the next step and bring the weeds inside? Surprisingly, many weeds are edible (dandelions, for example). They can be made into teas, put into soups, fried, or eaten washed and raw in delicious salads.

Incorporating them into your meals won’t do any harm to the grass and might even save you a few dollars at the grocery store.

Pulled out dandelions

Weed Puller

If all else fails, get out into the yard with a weed puller. These handy little contraptions have long handles and sharp blades that cut through the soil to grip the roots of weeds. All you have to do to remove the weed is push the puller into the ground, perhaps give it a twist, and pull it out. Whoila! The entire weed is gone.

Walensee Weed Puller, Stand Up Weeder Hand Tool, Long Handle Garden Weeding Tool with 3 Claws, Hand Weed Hound Weed Puller for Dandelion, Standup Weed Root Pulling Tool and Picker, Grabber (1 Pack)
  • Standup Weeding Tool For A Better Gardening Experience: Get rid of weeds with this long handled lawn weeding tool. The 39” tall handle lets you uproot the weeds without having to bend over or go down to your knees. The foot pedal lets you put enough force on the gardening weed extractor to penetrate the ground and grab the whole weed, including the roots, so it doesn’t grow back. It is good tools for your garden, backyard, frontyard landscaping
  • Pointed 3 Claw Design Suitable For Different Soil Types: Three 2.75” Steel teeth are long enough to efficiently uproot grass roots. Please keep stand-up, simply push the tines into the roots of the weeds/flower/grass, let the tine grasps grass roots, tilt to one side and pull out the weed and release the grass. The tool is workable for crabgrass, thistle, tap root, crab grass, taproot, plantain, clover, burdock, bush etc
  • Durable And High Strength Materials: This weed removing tool is made from durable stainless high strength steel. This is a durable stainless steel garden weed puller, so you don’t have to buy another weeder.
  • Labor Saving: Effortlessly pull weeds from your garden without having to bend down or kneel. When you use the weeder to uproot grass/flower which can assure minimum fatigue. It is really a great gift for grandfather, grandmother, grandpa, grandma, father, Mother, husband and wife.
  • 100% Guarantee: If you are not completely satisfied with our product, you’ll get every penny refunded, no questions asked.If there is any question with our product or service, please feel free to contact us. We are always here to provide professional solution for you.

Lemon Juice

Lemon juice is much like vinegar; it is potent, natural, and easy to get your hands on. You can use concentrated lemon juice from the grocery store or fresh juice from whole lemons. Carefully apply the juice to the weeds and watch the magic happen.

ReaLemon 100 percent Lemon Juice, 15 fl oz bottles (Pack of 12)
  • REAL FLAVOR: Made with 100 percent lemon and lime juice from concentrate
  • FRESH TASTE: Get the taste of real juice without the hassle of cutting into fresh lemons or limes
  • NATURALLY GOOD: ReaLemon and ReaLime are caffeine-free, gluten-free and sodium-free
  • FOOD ENHANCER: ReaLemon and ReaLime are space-saving kitchen sidekicks, adding a delicious twist of lemon or lime to your favorite seafood, poultry and marinades
  • TRUSTED BRAND: First introduced in Chicago in 1934, ReaLemon and ReaLime have been trusted brands that deliver only the highest quality of lemon and lime juice
Mowing lawn at day

What Time Can I Mow My Lawn?: The Best and Worst Times To Cut the Grass

When it comes to lawn maintenance, there are a number of factors that should be considered. Today, though, we’re discussing the time of day. If you’ve never factored the time of day and its corresponding weather into your decision of whether or not to go out and cut the grass, maybe it’s time that you do.

Gardena 4022 Silent Non Contact Cylinder Lawn Mower
  • Grass deflector; Large wheels with special profile
  • Extremely smooth running, quiet and effort saving
  • 13 mm to 42 mm (0.50 to 1.65 inches); Cutting height adjustment

Below, you’ll find some helpful information about the best and worst times of day in which to mow your lawn or do any kind of lawn maintenance.


8:00 – 10:00 am

Starting with the beginning of the day, one of the most optimal times to mow your lawn is from 8:00 to 10:00 am. You may have heard that “the earlier the better”, but this is only true to an extent; mowing too early can be a problem, which we’ll get into a bit later.

8:00 to 10:00 am is one of the best times because, by that point in the morning, the previous night’s dew and moisture have begun to evaporate, making the grass dry enough to mow. In addition, it’s generally just starting to warm up during this time but won’t be too hot.

4:00 – 6:00 pm

Coming in second best is the window between 4:00 and 6:00 pm. By this time of day, the temperature should have reached its peak and be steadily decreasing. Your lawn will also have a few hours to recover from the trauma of being mowed before nightfall, which is a bonus.

The only thing with this time of day, though, is that it tends to be a prime time for the emergence of bugs like mosquitoes.

Mowing lawn at night


6:00 – 8:00 am

This early in the morning, even though it’s not hot outside and there are likely very few bugs, you’re going to run into more trouble than it’s worth if you try to mow your lawn. The main problem here is that the grass is wet.

This can lead to your mower leaving tracks in the grass as well as wet grass clogging your mower’s motor.

 6:00 – 8:00 pm

Although there is nothing really wrong with mowing your lawn during this window of time, it’s best practice to void it if at all possible. As we mentioned before, your lawn needs time to recover before temperatures dip too low during the night.

Mowing so close to nightfall means that your lawn has very little time to recover. This is important because lawns are most prone to damage during the night, so if it hasn’t fully recovered from mowing, it’s more likely to become sick and/or die.

While there are certainly good and bad times to mow the lawn, no one is telling you when to do it. The decision is solely up to you, the mower, and factors such as where you live, the current weather patterns, and your individual schedule should come into play as well as our recommendations.